Reptiles and Temperature

Today I have been looking into average temperatures of Australia in different areas and it got me thinking, where are the temperatures measured?

It turns out that temperatures are always taken in the shade and at a height of 1-2m from the ground.

So how different are the temperatures on the ground in the sun?

When looking in to this for keeping reptiles in captivity, it just gives you a rough idea of what they might need and you have to then fine tune the temperatures depending on their behaviour. Too hot and the reptiles will hide and to cold and they will spend all day basking.

Also many of the species of reptiles that are kept in captivity have a natural range that will overlap with another species, but that does not mean that these two species are kept the same. Behaviour can differ, you may have a snake that spends the hotter parts of the day hiding and comes out in the cool hours and a lizard that loves to bask in the highest temperatures but seeks the cover when the temperatures drop.

The behaviour of the reptile can also help maintain their body temperature longer, basking in the sun then hide under a log, coiled nice and tight. Some reptiles will be better at this than others. A large snake could maintain the temperature for a long time where a Chameleon on a branch would cool more quickly only being able to hide amongst leaves out of any breeze.

Thinking about all of this makes me think that there is still a lot to learn.

Corn Snake Care

The Corn Snakes is a North American species of rat snake. The name corn snake comes from the fact the their bellies have a corn (maize) like pattern and because they are often found in corn fields.
Because of their very docile nature, and moderate size (4-5Ft or 1.2-1.5m) and attractive patterning they have become the most popular pet species. They also breed readily in captivity and are now available in many colour morphs.They feed on rodents and birds in the wild; in captivity they accept a diet of frozen (defrosted) mice or rats.Life expectancy is around 15-20 years and have been recorded living up to 23 years.



Selecting Your Snake

When purchasing a corn snake it is worth will going to a reputable reptile shop or breeder. They will be only too happy to let you see the selection of snakes they have available. The snake should be confident with handling although hatchling often take a minute or two to settle down. They should be bright and clean looking. Check the snake is feeding ok (never buy a non-feeder) most people keep feeding records. Hatchlings should have eaten a minimum of 3 times before they are sold.

Housing

A wooden Vivarium is best for Corn Snakes as they are better insulated than glass or plastic tanks, so therefore easier to get the heating set up correctly. They are also designed with snakes in mind so escapees are unlikely. (Remember to shut the doors properly!). A wooden vivarium will offer more privacy as they only have a glass front.
For a hatchling snake we would recommend a 24” vivarium, then upgrade to a 36” at about 1 year of age.
If young snakes are put into a large vivarium they often become stressed and refuse to feed.

Heating

Temperature is very important in reptile care as they cannot produce there own body heat and need to be kept with in a suitable range to help the body function correctly.

Corn snakes require a temperature gradient of 25˚C to 30˚C during in the day; this can be achieved by using a heat mat and a basking light on thermostats mounted at one side of the vivarium to create a warmer side. At night the temperature should drop to around 20˚C to 25˚C.
It is very important to know what the temperature is, so check regularly with an accurate thermometer. Do not guess or take temperature buy hand (if snake feels warm or cold)

Lighting

A simply 12 hour light cycle is ideal for Corn snakes.

Snakes do not require UV lighting like lizards do, although some believe it is beneficial by some it is not required.

Water

It is important to provide your snake with fresh water every day, in a bowl that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. This will help the snake shed its skin.

Hides and Décor

The snake will require a few hides in the vivarium so that it can feel secure. By having 2 or 3 in different areas the vivarium the snake will be able to chose the one that is at the best temperature. A humid hide is also recommended (such as the Exo Terra Snake Cave). These are hollow hides with a damp moss inside, snakes will often use these when they are shedding their skin.
Plastic plants are also good to use, as these look very attractive in the vivarium as well as offering privacy. Real plants however are a poor choice, as the heat will kill them very quickly and the snakes will often dig them out if their pots.

Feeding

Feed your snake one defrosted mouse weekly. The mouse should be no bigger than the largest part of the snake. Corn snakes can eat mice their entire lives - starting off with pinkies as a hatchling and moving up in size as the animal grows.

As snakes do not use energy to warm their bodies (as mammals do) they need less energy to function.
Resist the urge to feed your snake more often or larger prey as this can lead to the snake growing to fast, which can result in the head of the snake not growing at the same speed as the rest of the body. Obesity can also be a problem. If a snake is overfed they have no reason to move around their vivarium and this is detrimental to their health.

There are a few feeding techniques the most simple is to place the defrosted food in the vivarium near the snake and leave it to feed. The other way is to offer the food on some tongs or tweezers to the snake, they will often strike very quickly then constrict the mouse.

Snake some times will refuse to feed while shedding.

Maintenance

Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary, removing waste as soon as possible. Clean and disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using safe disinfectant. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow too dry before replacing cage furniture and your snake.

The Corn Snakes is a North American species of rat snake. The name corn snake comes from the fact the their bellies have a corn (maize) like pattern and because they are often found in corn fields.
Because of their very docile nature, and moderate size (4-5Ft or 1.2-1.5m) and attractive patterning they have become the most popular pet species. They also breed readily in captivity and are now available in many colour morphs.They feed on rodents and birds in the wild; in captivity they accept a diet of frozen (defrosted) mice or rats.Life expectancy is around 15-20 years and have been recorded living up to 23 years.



Shedding



Snakes shed their skin as they grow, it normal comes off in one piece. The first stage in the process is when the eyes go opaque (cloudy) at this point the snake will not want to feed and will hide away, it is best to leave it to do so. After a few days the eyes will clear again but it won’t shed for another 7 to 10 days. If the snake has trouble removing the skin it is best to put the snake in a tub with some damp moss to help soften the skin and help buy gentle rubbing. If you have trouble removing the skin

The Corn Snakes is a North American species of rat snake. The name corn snake comes from the fact the their bellies have a corn (maize) like pattern and because they are often found in corn fields.
Because of their very docile nature, and moderate size (4-5Ft or 1.2-1.5m) and attractive patterning they have become the most popular pet species. They also breed readily in captivity and are now available in many colour morphs.They feed on rodents and birds in the wild; in captivity they accept a diet of frozen (defrosted) mice or rats.Life expectancy is around 15-20 years and have been recorded living up to 23 years.





Conclusion

Corn Snakes are great to keep, very interesting, and fun to own and easy to care for. But one is never enough!

Snakes in the Studio!

Earlier this week I was listening to JackFM while working and was laughing away to myself, then thought wouldn’t it be fun to take some snakes into the studio! So I wrote a quick email and was pleased to get an answer very quickly simply saying “Hi Pete, Trev (presenter) is terrified but says yes!”
So it was arranged to go in this morning, I packed up 2 Womas and 3 Corn Snakes and made my way to Oxford.
As it happens Jack Fm has a sister station called Oxford’s FM107.9 which operates from the studio next door, they were also keen to see the snakes!
I started with an interview with Rosie and Sophie on FM107.9.They are great fun and were very interested in the snakes. Rosie was very keen to do a “Britney pose” with my female Woma!

Next I moved to Jack FM and true to his word Trev was terrified of the little tiny corn snakes that came out first.



Sue and Greg were very comfortable and interested in the snakes. After a bit of persuasion Trev did manage to hold a corn snake. The bid woma went down well too. She was very well behaved and interested in all the equipment, trying to get a close look at it all!

It was a really good morning, but soon over. I hope I can do it again soon.

Thanks guys

Caring for hatchling snakes

Hatchling snakes can be very delicate and sensitive to changes in their environment. It is very important to know the temperatures required by the species you are keeping. To cold and they won’t want to eat as they need to be at the correct temperatures to digest their food. To hot and they will stress and become ill. A temperature gradient is important as they need to be able to move from warm to cool areas to control their body temperature.
Many species find large areas stressful and it can put them off their food if there isn’t enough shelter. Most species will be happier in smaller vivariums, but there are a few in my opinion that are better in larger vivariums, such as Indigo snakes and Womas, both of these are active and confident species.
Shelter is very important for the snake to retreat to if they feel threatened or scared by something, they should have a few options, some large, some small and hides in the warmest and coolest areas as well as in the middle.
When you purchase your snake it should be feeding enthusiastically and be fairly confident, settling in to the new vivarium within a few days. Sometime the change in environment can upset them, so it is important to give them time to settle.
Make sure you are providing what your snakes need, any doubts contact us.

Crested Geckos

Crested geckos were thought to be extinct until their rediscovery after a tropical storm in
1994. They are now one of the most commonly kept geckos in the world and export from their native New Caledonia is prohibited. Since their rediscovery there has been a huge effort to breed them in captivity, they're easy going nature and simple requirements have help them become one of the most popular pet species.

Selecting Your Gecko

When purchasing a Crested Gecko it is worth while going to a reputable reptile shop or breeder. They will be only too happy to let you see the selection of geckos they have available. The gecko should be confident with handling although hatchlings often jumpy at first and will take a minute or two to settle down. They should be bright and clean looking. If the geckos tail it is missing it is worth noting that this will not grow back as it would with other geck species.

Housing

Crested geckos require higher humidity and lower temperatures than most commonly kept reptile species, so a glass terrarium is a great choice for them. We recommend using a terrarium measuring 45x45x60cm (18x18x24”), this is a tall terrarium whisch suits there arboreal (tree climbing) life style. See our Crested Gecko Setup

Substrate & Decor

Coconut fibre substrates such as Zoo Med Eco Earth and Lucky Reptile Humus Brick are ideal for Crested Geckos as this can be kept moist (which helps keep the humidity high) without the substrate growing mold. As they geckos are nocturnal it is important to provide cover for hiding behind during the day, plastic and silk plants are great for this. Wood can also be provided for climbing on.

Heating

Crested geckos require a day time temperature range of 22c to 27c (72f to 80f) with the optimum being 24° c to 26° c (75° f to 78° f). At night temperatures can be allowed to drop as low as 13° c (55° f).Temperatures over 30° c (85° F) is dangerous for the gecko. Always use a thermometer to check temperatures.

Lighting

Crested geckos are nocturnal, so the lighting requirements are different from diurnal species but still very important. A 5% UV light should be used to help the gecko use the calcium from it diet. A 10-12 hour light cycle will be fine.

Feeding and Water

Crested Geckos are omnivorous meaning they eat live food and vegetation Their diet is high in small soft fruit (non citrus), along with whatever invertebrates that happen within striking distance. In captivity, fresh soft fruits (and baby food) like Banana, Peach, and Apricot, are relished by Crested Geckos, as well as Crickets and as a treat small locusts, mealworms and wax worms. Livefoods should be coated in a vitamin and mineral supplement such as Repton to ensure the Crested Gecko is getting the best nutrition possible. A special Crested Gecko diet food is now also available, mix this with water and pour into their food dish. Or alternatively mix with fruit baby foods and freeze in an ice cube tray to make a very easy to use diet. A bowl of drinking water should always be available and spray the enclosure daily with water, the gecko will drink the droplets and it will also raise the humidity.

Handling

Crested Geckos are a good lizard for handling. They should be treated gently, with love and care allowing it to sit on the hands. They natural get around by jumping from branch to branch so be prepared for it to jump up onto your shoulder. Never grab or pick up a Crested Gecko by its tail as they will shed the tail as a defence mechanism. It will not grow back!

Keeping Together

Males do not get on with each other as adults and will fight so only keep one per enclosure. Males can be kept with a group of females providing the terrarium is large enough to accommodate them. Females are ok to be kept as a colony. If you have males and females together, expect them to mate and lay eggs!

Maintenance

Regular spot cleaning of the terrarium should be performed to keep it hygienic for both the animal and the keeper. Dead live foods and the Crested Gecko's faeces should be removed when noticed. Change the substrate once a month or as required and clean the terrarium with a reptile safe disinfectant such as Medivet Vetaclean.

Acanthodactylus paradis - Leopard Fringe Fingered Lizards.

I have been asked to write this blog by Emma on Facebook and I like a challenge but this is a hard one!

Leopard Fringe Fingered Lizards are not a species I am familiar with, so I thought I would google it. Not a lot comes up, then I realised why Emma asked me to do this.

This is all the information that I did find.

Acanthodactylus is a genus of lizards within the Lacertidae family, commonly referred to as fringe-fingered or fringe-toed lizards They are native to a wide area in Africa and southern Europe; across the Sahara Desert, and up to the Iberian peninsula. Though the lizards prefer dry and sparsely-vegetated regions, it is not strictly tied to an arid terrain, so it is not uncommon to come across it in various environments. The Acanthodactylus's coloration and the pattern of its spots is extremely variable, so it is unsurprising that zoologists have, at one time or another, classified every variety as a separate species. Every saurian of this genus is very aggressive and gets continuously involved in skirmishes with other members of its species. The males strenuously defend the borders of their territories. The Acanthodactylus are oviparous. The number of eggs in a clutch ranges from 3 to 7. The length of an adult of the species is, on average, between 18 to 20 centimeters.

So what have I learnt about Leopard Fringe Fingered Lizards?

Not a lot!

Bearded Dragons

Bearded dragons make great pets; they have a lot of character and will learn how to get the best out of you. Demanding that you give them attention (and food) almost every time you pass their vivarium.
This has made them a very popular choice, appealing to people from all walks of life. When I first came across them, some 14 years ago they out shone all the other lizards I had worked with within a few days. They didn’t try and hide from me or try and scare me away. They wanted to see what I was doing.
They were fairly rare in the UK in those days and were fetching a lot of money compared to more common species. This was because there wasn’t any being imported from the wild, which was a good thing.

While I was traveling in Australia I was lucky enough to see a few species of Bearded Dragons, some while looking for them and sometimes while speeding along in a bus (well I think I saw them, its hard to tell for sure at 60mph!). It was great to see them in there natural enviroment.

Within a couple of years the numbers in the UK had increased and they became more affordable. Also more was learnt about their requirements and the importance of UV lighting, which made a big difference to their health and longevity.
It may be more expensive to set up a vivarium for Bearded Dragon than say a Leopard Gecko, but they are definitely worth it. Don’t get me wrong I really like leopard geckos too; they just aren’t as outgoing.
So would I recommend a Bearded Dragon to a new reptile keeper?
Quite simply YES!


Need more info on how to care for Bearded Dragons?

Please read my caresheet