Reptiles and Temperature

Today I have been looking into average temperatures of Australia in different areas and it got me thinking, where are the temperatures measured?

It turns out that temperatures are always taken in the shade and at a height of 1-2m from the ground.

So how different are the temperatures on the ground in the sun?

When looking in to this for keeping reptiles in captivity, it just gives you a rough idea of what they might need and you have to then fine tune the temperatures depending on their behaviour. Too hot and the reptiles will hide and to cold and they will spend all day basking.

Also many of the species of reptiles that are kept in captivity have a natural range that will overlap with another species, but that does not mean that these two species are kept the same. Behaviour can differ, you may have a snake that spends the hotter parts of the day hiding and comes out in the cool hours and a lizard that loves to bask in the highest temperatures but seeks the cover when the temperatures drop.

The behaviour of the reptile can also help maintain their body temperature longer, basking in the sun then hide under a log, coiled nice and tight. Some reptiles will be better at this than others. A large snake could maintain the temperature for a long time where a Chameleon on a branch would cool more quickly only being able to hide amongst leaves out of any breeze.

Thinking about all of this makes me think that there is still a lot to learn.

Corn Snake Care

The Corn Snakes is a North American species of rat snake. The name corn snake comes from the fact the their bellies have a corn (maize) like pattern and because they are often found in corn fields.
Because of their very docile nature, and moderate size (4-5Ft or 1.2-1.5m) and attractive patterning they have become the most popular pet species. They also breed readily in captivity and are now available in many colour morphs.They feed on rodents and birds in the wild; in captivity they accept a diet of frozen (defrosted) mice or rats.Life expectancy is around 15-20 years and have been recorded living up to 23 years.



Selecting Your Snake

When purchasing a corn snake it is worth will going to a reputable reptile shop or breeder. They will be only too happy to let you see the selection of snakes they have available. The snake should be confident with handling although hatchling often take a minute or two to settle down. They should be bright and clean looking. Check the snake is feeding ok (never buy a non-feeder) most people keep feeding records. Hatchlings should have eaten a minimum of 3 times before they are sold.

Housing

A wooden Vivarium is best for Corn Snakes as they are better insulated than glass or plastic tanks, so therefore easier to get the heating set up correctly. They are also designed with snakes in mind so escapees are unlikely. (Remember to shut the doors properly!). A wooden vivarium will offer more privacy as they only have a glass front.
For a hatchling snake we would recommend a 24” vivarium, then upgrade to a 36” at about 1 year of age.
If young snakes are put into a large vivarium they often become stressed and refuse to feed.

Heating

Temperature is very important in reptile care as they cannot produce there own body heat and need to be kept with in a suitable range to help the body function correctly.

Corn snakes require a temperature gradient of 25˚C to 30˚C during in the day; this can be achieved by using a heat mat and a basking light on thermostats mounted at one side of the vivarium to create a warmer side. At night the temperature should drop to around 20˚C to 25˚C.
It is very important to know what the temperature is, so check regularly with an accurate thermometer. Do not guess or take temperature buy hand (if snake feels warm or cold)

Lighting

A simply 12 hour light cycle is ideal for Corn snakes.

Snakes do not require UV lighting like lizards do, although some believe it is beneficial by some it is not required.

Water

It is important to provide your snake with fresh water every day, in a bowl that is large enough for the snake to submerge in. This will help the snake shed its skin.

Hides and Décor

The snake will require a few hides in the vivarium so that it can feel secure. By having 2 or 3 in different areas the vivarium the snake will be able to chose the one that is at the best temperature. A humid hide is also recommended (such as the Exo Terra Snake Cave). These are hollow hides with a damp moss inside, snakes will often use these when they are shedding their skin.
Plastic plants are also good to use, as these look very attractive in the vivarium as well as offering privacy. Real plants however are a poor choice, as the heat will kill them very quickly and the snakes will often dig them out if their pots.

Feeding

Feed your snake one defrosted mouse weekly. The mouse should be no bigger than the largest part of the snake. Corn snakes can eat mice their entire lives - starting off with pinkies as a hatchling and moving up in size as the animal grows.

As snakes do not use energy to warm their bodies (as mammals do) they need less energy to function.
Resist the urge to feed your snake more often or larger prey as this can lead to the snake growing to fast, which can result in the head of the snake not growing at the same speed as the rest of the body. Obesity can also be a problem. If a snake is overfed they have no reason to move around their vivarium and this is detrimental to their health.

There are a few feeding techniques the most simple is to place the defrosted food in the vivarium near the snake and leave it to feed. The other way is to offer the food on some tongs or tweezers to the snake, they will often strike very quickly then constrict the mouse.

Snake some times will refuse to feed while shedding.

Maintenance

Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary, removing waste as soon as possible. Clean and disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage furniture and completely disinfect using safe disinfectant. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and allow too dry before replacing cage furniture and your snake.

The Corn Snakes is a North American species of rat snake. The name corn snake comes from the fact the their bellies have a corn (maize) like pattern and because they are often found in corn fields.
Because of their very docile nature, and moderate size (4-5Ft or 1.2-1.5m) and attractive patterning they have become the most popular pet species. They also breed readily in captivity and are now available in many colour morphs.They feed on rodents and birds in the wild; in captivity they accept a diet of frozen (defrosted) mice or rats.Life expectancy is around 15-20 years and have been recorded living up to 23 years.



Shedding



Snakes shed their skin as they grow, it normal comes off in one piece. The first stage in the process is when the eyes go opaque (cloudy) at this point the snake will not want to feed and will hide away, it is best to leave it to do so. After a few days the eyes will clear again but it won’t shed for another 7 to 10 days. If the snake has trouble removing the skin it is best to put the snake in a tub with some damp moss to help soften the skin and help buy gentle rubbing. If you have trouble removing the skin

The Corn Snakes is a North American species of rat snake. The name corn snake comes from the fact the their bellies have a corn (maize) like pattern and because they are often found in corn fields.
Because of their very docile nature, and moderate size (4-5Ft or 1.2-1.5m) and attractive patterning they have become the most popular pet species. They also breed readily in captivity and are now available in many colour morphs.They feed on rodents and birds in the wild; in captivity they accept a diet of frozen (defrosted) mice or rats.Life expectancy is around 15-20 years and have been recorded living up to 23 years.





Conclusion

Corn Snakes are great to keep, very interesting, and fun to own and easy to care for. But one is never enough!